Return to Mont Ventoux

I just could not resist a return to Ventoux before heading back home tomorrow. Over the past week, since my first attempt to climb what is commonly called the Beast of Provence, the weather has cooled and the wind has started to blow, so I was not expecting such an easy ride this time.

Having already climbed from Bédoin, I was tempted to head out from one of the other two villages today, or at least if climbing again from Bédoin, to take a different descent. My final decision, however, was to stick to this "most famous and difficult ascent", so as to be able to compare segment times with my last climb.

Coincidentally, I've just reached a page in 'The Rider', my holiday reading, where the author, Tim Krabbé speaks of a similar decision. He says that he always chooses the Bédoin side because the 1958 time trial TdF began there and that way he can compare his times with those of the champions. Charly Gaul came first at 1 hour, 2 minutes, which when Krabbé wrote 'The Rider' was still the record. Gaul was however, taken to his hotel in an ambulance, something I'm not up for copying! The current fastest ever ascent belongs to the Spaniard Iban Mayo, recorded in the 2004 Critérium du Dauphiné Libéré at 55 minutes, 51 seconds.

I rose at 6:00 am and was parked up on the outskirts of Bédoin and on my bike for just before 07:00 am. I seemed to be the only one out this morning, no requirement on this occasion for the Good Samaritan. The ride out of Bédoin starts with that faux plat, the road looks level and I'm in the big ring but it's hard work and I have to drop to the smaller ring. My muscles have not warmed up yet and that road is definitely not level!

Climbing through the trees, even without the damp earth, was far cooler than last week and was very glad of the arm warmers. I brought these along for the later down hill section but felt the need of them as soon as I stepped from the car. After an hour, my core temperature had risen sufficiently for the arm warmers to be removed. This was confirmed by the buildup of moisture in my cap and the drips of sweat dropping from its peak onto my arms and the Roubaix's cross bar. I was now climbing into the sun and could see nothing but the ground beneath my front wheel and the rainbow effect of light shining through the drips from my hat.

After an hour and a half, I finally broke through the tree line out onto the moonscape that surrounds the summit. At this point I'd only been passed by one whippet of a cyclist and had passed another who had taken to walking the rest of the way. The mountain was very quite today. At the two hour point, I had yet to stop and was determined now to make it all the way to the top without pulling over for a breather. I had also kept a close eye on my fuel and fluid intake, something I have found critical when covering any distances these days, and was feeling good for what I thought would be another 30 minutes of twisting my way up to the mountain top.

These last minutes of climb, out of the protection of the trees, from sun and wind, are to me both the most torturous but also most enjoyable. On a clear day, as today, the views are truly incredible. One really does feel on top of the world. The sun was now burning down on me. The strong wind, which had been building over the past few days and was forecasted at 35kph today, however, acted as a cooling fan to my overheating engine. This was appreciated when blowing in from behind or may be as a cross wind, but not as it happened, when I turned north into what can only be described as a wind tunnel. I had to get out of the saddle at these points to keep forward momentum. Fortunately the twisting nature of the mountainous road meant that I was soon receiving wind assistance for the next section of climb or the angle of the rock face sheltered me from any further buffeting until the next bend.

There seems to be confusion over the height of Mont Ventoux
1912m or 1911m, either way I've climbed both

I arrived at the summit just 2 hours, 15 minutes after my depart from Bédoin, and after a short stop for the prerequisite pictures, I slipped back on my arm warmers for the descent. I was a little bit more cautious on the down hill section, memories of my exploding rear tyre still fresh in my mind. 30 minutes later I was rolling into Bédoin feeling great .. where else can you roll for 10 miles at an average speed of 30 mph! No punctures this time, no stops en route and no detours. I completed the round trip 30 minutes quicker than last week and 4 minutes quicker in actual moving time even though I was marginally slower on the descent.

I'll be sad now to leave this area of Provence, the scenery, weather and cycling has been simply amazing. The domineering presence of Mont Ventoux, visible from most of the surrounding towns and villages, has been inspiring and I'm grateful to have been able to climb this Beast of Provence twice in as many weeks. I am hoping I'll have the opportunity to return to Mont Ventoux in the future, but if not, it will have a very special place in my cycling memories, and to be relived every time the TdF grace its slopes.

Mont Ventoux

Mont Ventoux rises to an altitude of 1,911 metres and has become legendary as the scene of one of the most grueling climbs in the Tour de France, which has ascended the mountain fifteen times since 1951.

As I commented on yesterday, it is no coincidence that I find myself in Provence today and just 10 miles from Bédoin, the base of this momentous mountain climb.

As the guides say, Mont Ventoux can be climbed by three routes.

• South from Bédoin: 1617 m over 21.8 km. This is the most famous and difficult ascent. The road to the summit has an average gradient of 7.43%. Until Saint-Estève, the climb is easy: 3.9% over 5.8 km, but the 16 remaining kilometres have an average gradient of 8.9%. To serve as a comparison, the climb of L'Alpe d'Huez, another made famous by the TdF, is about 13.8 km at an average gradient of 7.9%. The last kilometres are said to have strong, violent winds and the ride should take 1h30m-2h30m for trained amateur rider. Professional riders take 1h-1h15 min. The fastest time so far recorded has been that of Iban Mayo in the individual climbing time trial of the 2004 Dauphiné Libéré: 55' 51". 
• Northwest from Malaucène: 1570 m over 21,5 km. About equal in difficulty as the Bédoin ascent, better sheltered against the wind.
• East from Sault: 1210 m over 26 km. The easiest route. After Chalet Reynard (where the "lunar landscape" of the summit starts), the climb is the same as the Bédoin ascent. Average gradient of 4.4%.

For me, it obviously had to be the "most famous and difficult ascent" for my first attempt at this climb. So, I headed out this morning at 06:30 am for Bédoin. Having completed a rece on Monday, I had a  piece of rough ground on the outskirts of the town in mind to park up and unload. This was a busy area earlier in the week, as the centre of town had been taken over by the many and varied stalls of the weekly market. Today, however, my Yeti was the only vehicle in sight as I passed by the no access sign, the entrance slope having been washed away by last night's storms. As I affixed the front wheel and slipped on my cycling shoes and glasses, a car laden with three lady cyclists and their bikes pulled up next to me, having entered via the same exit as I. Completing my pre cycling checks and securing the car, the matron cyclist appeared at my shoulder with her bike, gesturing at the saddle. Through signing, our English and French mutually incompatible, it was clear she needed to lower the saddle but had no tools to make this happen. How she had thought she would ride a bike without being able to touch the pedals was beyond me, but luckily I was able to assist. With this first good deed completed I clipped into my pedal for the off, only to be called back again. I saw the three looking puzzled over two pumps and one flat tyre. Their issue was a mystery but the solution, to inflate the tyre, seemed clear. Back to the Yeti to grab my pump, tyre inflated, car re-secured, second good deed completed.

A video message from Mont Ventoux

This good Samaritan was finally then on his way, pedalling gently through the town towards the mountain. The sun was up and the sky clear. The air was, however, cool after the previous day's rain providing the perfect conditions for what is renowned as a challenging climb in the oppressive heat of a summer's day. From Bédoin, the climb starts very gently through the villages of Saint Columbe and Saint Steve until the tree line is reached. Here the ascent ramps up to 9% and I can imagine how in the heat, the surrounding trees can become very oppressive as they stifle any cooling mountain breeze . This morning, however, the damp tarmac and surrounding earth provides its own cooling effect and I find the temperature and moist air most refreshing, while the trees provide welcome shade from the rising sun. The regularly placed markers count down the kilometers and give me convenient points to take a quick photo for the album and eat some food, may be a banana, a gel or an energy bar.

The summit seemingly gets no closer

The mountain road is considerably quieter at this hour than on Monday's rece. I pass may be 2-3 riders and the same probably pass me. With between 1-2 km from the summit, the trees are replaced by a barren scorched landscape and the distinctive now disused meteorological station with its 50m-high telecommunications mast comes into view. The road continues to twist and climb but frustratingly the summit remains tantalisingly in view but seemingly gets no closer. While this is the shortest stretch of the climb, it seems the most challenging, with the sun burning down and the wind adding weight to your tiring legs now that as the cooling shade and shelter of the trees is lost. The final couple of turns with the strategically placed professional photographers provide a psychological boost to moral. There is then just a short sharp hairpin climb to the summit and you are presented with just the most amazing view and euphoria. Smiles are everywhere as riders line up for photos at the summit marker, to record the completion of a momentous climb.

At the summit .. should have lost the helmet though!

Having cycled 2 hours to reach the top, the return to Bédoin takes just 20 minutes. I did, however, and most frustratingly, suffer a rear tyre puncture close to the bottom on a 30 mph corner. The air whistled out of the tyre in a couple of seconds following the sound of a starting pistol, as the inner tube was forced through a split in the tyre wall. This did not distract from an amazing ride and one I will remember fondly for some time. I would even say that I'd like to try it again some day, should I ever be back this way.

Postscript:

The length and gradient of the descent resulted in some amazing new PBs:

• 10 mi 18m:42s replaced PB of 27m:49s recorded on 26-Apr-15
• 20 km 23m:48s replaced PB of 35m:34s also recorded on 26-Apr-15